From a blend originating in the late 1920s, this is an impressive statement of aged complexity. Such is the stature and maturity of Chambers that it’s fair to consider each of its fortifieds a tier higher than their classification, making this more like a rare in its layers of rancio complexity, roast nuts, bitter dark […]
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From Yalumba’s 1889 planted Nursery Block, this was previously labelled Tricentenary Grenache. 2008 was characterised by the heatwave of 5-17 March, but harvested on 5 March, it captures wonderfully intense and ripe strawberry and raspberry fruit, without becoming too ripe or jammy. Instead, this is an alluringly savoury and textural grenache with lifted violet notes, […]
readSpy Valley’s Envoy has marked out a benchmark for Marlborough pinot noir for no fewer than seven vintages, but its Outpost vineyard has only been bottled separately a few times, and such is its rarity that I’ve never seen it outside NZ. It projects a remarkably elegant rose hip and understated exotic spice demeanour for […]
readBill Downie’s three pinots are more distinctive than ever, and presented blind it wasn’t hard to pick them on their bouquets alone. From vines now fifteen years of age, his Mornington is often my favourite of the trilogy, with an ethereal bouquet of rose petals, brambles and dried flowers. The palate is immaculately poised, with […]
readWho would have imagined that one of Kym Teusner’s most captivating mataros would emerge from the cool, wet 2011 season? This is a culmination of all the things I like most about this vintage. It’s impeccably fragrant on the bouquet and palate, laced with rose hip, rhubarb, tobacco, lively red berry fruits and rich, lingering […]
readBill Downie reckons it isn’t trendy to make pinot from the Yarra Valley floor at the moment, but he considers the fruit of the densely planted Denton vineyard in Yarra Glen to be outstanding. It’s the only vineyard in the region on granite, which he says accounts for a flinty mineral line through the palate. […]
readRegular visits to Australia by Chateau Coutet’s delightful proprietor Aline Baly provide opportunities to compare many vintages of one of Sauterne’s great sweet wines. She recently pulled 2002, 2006, 2008, 2009 and 2010 out of her bag, and this was my pick. A vintage of great definition, projecting wonderful freshness of pristine peach, apricot, fig […]
readI was privileged to have the opportunity to showcase trophy winners of my Great Australian Red competition in London earlier this year, and one of the finest wines in the room was the 1990 vintage of The Reserve. The confident longevity of the greatest cabernet shiraz blends is perhaps uncontested in Australian wine. In 2004, […]
readSauvignon blanc performed well at Cullen in 2012, so its representation here has been lifted to a little more than 50%, without doing a thing to raise the volume on this coiled and restrained style. It declares its texture and structure first, beautifully fine in its chalky mouth feel, bolstered with just 6% barrel maturation. […]
readA great vintage for this estate, celebrating the 40th anniversary of its planting in 2012. This mild season has produced taut focus amidst well-composed depth, at once zesty in its grapefruit tang and juicy in its refined white peach flesh. Elegant Upper Yarra fruit is gently supported by cashew nut French oak and alluring overtones […]
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