Announcing one of the finest expressions of a particularly unique and idiosyncratic Australian pinot. I am not always an advocate of generous inclusion of stalks in pinot ferments, but this release will go down as a benchmark for what full inclusion of whole bunches can bring to a wine, while upholding full integrity of fruit […]
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It seems Kevin John encapsulates more definitive character and texture with each passing season, and 2011 is one of the finest ever, with a brilliant acid backbone that will rank it among the longest-lived. Its natural acidity is charged with electric vibrancy rarely seen in Margaret River, providing impeccable tang and structure to pristine white […]
readJack Mann, look out. In the hands of the masterful Larry Cherubino, a newly refurbished Riversdale Vineyard has yielded one of the greatest red wines of Frankland River in the modern era. A wine of breathtaking poise and structure; a fine, tense profile of astounding, firm, graphite-fine, mineral tannins provides intricate support to fragrant violet […]
readThe marvels of superfine graphite structure, euphoric fragrance and enduring longevity achieved in the Cullen vineyard at just 12.5% alcohol are without precedent anywhere in the country. The sheer tannin shape of this wine is mesmerising, with enduring grip that will sustain it for at least three decades, yet the epitome of finesse and unashamedly […]
readWelcome to a new spiritual plane for Righteous. I am the first to grumble when Barossa shiraz loses its verve at 15% alcohol, but occasionally – very occasionally – a wine of such pristine balance arrives that even elevated alcohol disappears in the midst of its dimensions. Kym Teusner has captured definitive Barossa density and […]
readSignature Graveyard, and one of the greats. This inimitable site declares its pedigree in 2011 not by the heavy footfall of intensity, nor the strength of rigid structure, but in the alluring fragrance of understated exotic presence and elegantly graceful medium-bodied subtlety. Nuance before impact, this is a Graveyard of incense, dried rose petals and […]
readGreat value in elegant rosé of Provence, in a versatile lunchtime guise. A pale salmon hue and lingering watermelon, pomegranate and guava flavours are enticingly subtle. The palate is softly textural, restrained and almost dry. $20 at Banks.
readAn impressive, savoury Valpolicella, softly textural and pizza ready. A blend of corvina veronese, rondinella and molinara, aged in stainless steel tanks to retain a bright, medium red-purple hue and dark berry and plum fruits. There’s a note of saltbush and a hint of game to keep things engaging, structured with fine tannins. Reliable and […]
readThanks to a screw cap closure, this sherry is surprisingly fresh after two years in bottle (bottled 2011, indicated by the 1 as the first digit in the bottling code). A notably salty and characterful Fino, filled with signature Jerez aromas and flavours of the sea, very mineral in its seasalt structure, with youthful persistence […]
readMercurey is a lesser commune of Burgundy, but its best wines can represent great value. Faiveley has been doing impressive things here in recent years, and you’ve read about my admiration of Clos des Myglands pinot noir here before. I’ve recently discovered its chardonnay partner, another clos of early-drinking appeal. If you’re looking for a […]
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