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Rutherglen Estates is unusual in this region for making an entourage of table wines and just one fortified – but it’s a good one, and well priced, so don’t miss it. With an average age of eight years, this could be labelled “Classic” (and it will be in the future). It’s lively and fresh, with […]

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Morris has never had a Tokay at the lowest level of the Rutherglen classification, as its youngest blend is still an average of eight years of age. It’s distinctive and varietal, with tea leaves, sweet honey and caramel flavours. Morris leaves its grapes out to ripen for longer than others, making this a softer style, […]

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A cooler than average vintage has given birth to one of the longest-lived of this famous bargain riesling, and undoubtedly one of the best. I adore the refinement of this rendition and a year after vintage it’s still beautifully lively and fresh, with a lime blossom bouquet and an entire fruit salad of stone fruits, […]

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The refinement of the 2012 whites from The Lane is something to behold, and sauvignon blanc is beautifully graceful and immaculately crafted. Refreshingly understated nashi pear and kaffir lime leave space for lees-accented, deep, mouthfilling texture and long-lingering energy. $20 at Simply Wines.

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I cannot recall a TarraWarra Estate Chardonnay that impressed me more than this, enlivened by the crunchy apple, pear, grapefruit and lemon fruits and crisp acidity of the cool 2011 season. It’s great to see a chardonnay at this price with a bit of sophistication, with notes of struck flint and charcuterie well gauged to […]

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Having achieved that magic threshold of 12-13 years of age, Aramis’ shiraz vines sang in the great 2010 vintage. There’s a density of black liquorice, fragrant blackberries and plums, underscored by the dark chocolate of French oak. Excellent poise and structure is created by firm, fine tannins of impressive texture and length. $22 at Wine […]

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Earlier this year I assembled a tasting of more than 100 New Zealand pinots not exhibited at any of New Zealand’s official tastings around the world, and Bannock Brae was one of the best. Planted in 1998 and 1999, the vines of this single vineyard estate reached the magic turning point of 12 years of […]

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Margaret is an enigma, one of the finest semillons in the country, pre-aged prior to release and sold for a fraction of its true worth. For such a wine to hail from some of the oldest semillon vines on the Barossa floor (some more than 80 years of age) is a paradox of the highest […]

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McLaren Vale escaped some of the rain that plagued south-eastern Australia in 2011 and its best expressions of shiraz are spicy, textural and elegant. Shottesbrook’s single vineyard at an altitude of 200m in Blewitt Springs is definitive of the style of the region in this unusual season. A pristine nose of lifted rose petals, black […]

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Morris’ fortifieds over-deliver in every way: price, age and taste. With an incredible average age of more than twenty years, this should be labelled “rare” rather than “grand” on the official classification, and it should be more expensive, too. It’s taut, dry and intensely nutty, with fresh acidity, hazelnut character and a softly salty finish. […]

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