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With lingering persistence and lively freshness, this is a well-assembled blend at a bargain price. It’s sweet, primary and packed with apricot jam, marmalade, fig paste, raisins and spice of all kinds. $20 at Dan Murphy’s and direct.

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Morris’ second tier muscat is one of the finest fortifieds on the shelves under $20 ($17 at Dan Murphy’s). It’s masterfully blended to capture fresh liveliness in the midst of lingering complexity and balanced sweetness. An air of Turkish delight and rose petals wafts over apricot, honey, fruit cake and dark chocolate.

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S&K’s Classic is an average of twelve years of age, retaining excellent fresh lift of potpourri and rose petal fragrance. The palate is luscious and sweet, full of apricots and raisins and lingering spice. It finishes lively and spirity, with impressive persistence. $28 at Bicton Cellars and Wine Box Warehouse.

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Campbell’s Classic is neck-and-neck with Stanton & Killeen’s, just across the road, but the style is a world away. There’s a feeling of richer depth and greater viscosity here, venturing into territory of roasted nuts, glacé peach, honey and complex layers of fruit cake. It retains its life in primary apricot, peach and fig flavours, […]

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This goes down among the highest scores I’ve ever thrown at a wine of this price, and it’s as low as $38 duty free (Downtown Duty Free, Sydney Duty Free and First Tax Duty Free). Never have I seen Morris Grand as magnificent as it looks right now, with a depth of colour and flavour […]

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Nothing short of a revelation. Black in hue with a gold rim, crammed with remarkable aromas of black olives and fruit cake spice, yet retaining consummate freshness and poise. It’s the focus and definition of the palate that set this apart as the finest Grand in Rutherglen right now, brilliantly poised and remarkably integrated, with […]

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Morris is my house rare, because I adore it and because it’s $57 at Dan Murphy’s, making two 500mL bottles the same price as a single 375mL of most other rares. It’s a travesty that they can make a wine of more than twenty years average age and sell it at this price, but the […]

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Quality and balance are more important to Colin Campbell than numbers, so he doesn’t track the exact age of his oldest muscat. It must be monumental, because there are flavours and aromas here that hark back to a bygone era. It’s transported beyond toffee, fig jam and marmalade, to an age of savoury black olives […]

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As if a culmination of every complexing element of every other fortified wine that has gone before it, each assembled intricately into a seamless whole, Chambers takes Rutherglen muscat to a new pinnacle. Its Grand Muscat is of rare calibre by any comparison, and its Rare is in another league altogether. The average age is […]

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If you thought Morris’ twenty-year-old rare was the end of the line, this new release will blow your mind. David Morris says it’s hard to say just how old it is, but he puts it somewhere in the 35-40 year realm. Just 100 half bottles are released each year of this jet-black treacle. The nose […]

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