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There is a cracked pepper signature of Freycinet that is every bit as distinctive in Louis as it is in the estate’s top pinot noir. These vines are just half the age of the original estate plantings, but fifteen years is still more than respectable, and the seamless palate and lingering persistence that they bring […]

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A sensitively hand-crafted chardonnay that will go down among the greats of the Yarra Valley. Old Upper Yarra vines, wild fermented without malolactic makes for a brilliantly pure style, ringing with lemon blossom, grapefruit, fig, pear and a hint of wild honey. An understated intensity is underlined by high altitude acidity and mineral texture; silky […]

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There’s a deep core of blueberries, blackberries, pepper and violets on display here, but, as ever, the theme is more about structure and longevity than immediate fruit appeal. Textural, firm, fine, gravelly tannins provide great mouthfeel around a core of sweet fruit presence. With impressive fruit profile, supportive milk choc oak and excellent length, this […]

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Frankland River’s historic Justin vineyard is an outpost of cabernet glory otherwise reserved for the most revered pockets of Margaret River. The fruit that this place has conjured makes 2008 one of the great vintages of Jack Mann, with every detail immaculately placed. A core of brilliant focus of redcurrants and red cherries possesses such […]

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Don’t be fooled by the teeny price – this is no lolly juice. Sacred Hill is the most trustworthy supercheap rosé on the shelves and 2011 represents a strong rendition. Refreshing and surprisingly stylish, it’s loaded with raspberry, strawberry, pomegranate and watermelon fruit, finishing off-dry and even a touch textural. $6 at Jim’s Cellars.

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Penfolds celebrated the fiftieth consecutive release of Bin 389 yesterday by delving deep into its cellars and lining up the benchmark vintages of 1966, 1976, 1986, 1996 and 2006. At the end of the day, I was amazed to look back and discover that my scores averaged higher than those of four decades of Grange […]

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From two Penfolds vineyards in the highest reaches of the Eden Valley, this is an outstanding Bin 51 that captures the crystalline purity and elegant restraint of the cool 2011 season. At a refreshing 11.0% alcohol, it’s clean, fine, pure and cut. A precise fruit profile of kaffir lime and lemon is underlined by fine, […]

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Bin 311 has taken a year of leave from the slopes of Tumbarumba to venture to the south-west Victorian region of Henty, and it’s shed a little of its sophistication in the move. Eighteen percent new French oak is a little more than usual for this label, but the original plantings of the Seppelt Drumborg […]

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An $8 price hike brings Bin 138 in line with Bin 128 and Bin 28 for the first time, but it remains a simpler wine, without nearly the same structure or stamina. Grenache takes a confident lead (exactly half the blend), with its signature raspberry, strawberry and blackberry fruits, notes of mixed spice and fruit […]

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If this is any indication of what 2010 has in store from the Penfolds stable, we have much to look forward to. In its early release guise, Bin 128 is barely ready to assess, let alone drink, but with vigorous swirling there is a pretty violet perfume to be coaxed out of the glass. The […]

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