I would never expect young vine graciano to rise to the calibre of this esteemed list, but such is the beauty of the pure morello cherry bouquet and elegant-bodied fresh cherry palate of this stylishly crafted wine that its position is secure. Finely structured, textural tannins add to its fresh appeal and drinkability. Give it […]

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Peg Bay is one of New Zealand’s greatest rieslings, and less botrytis makes 2009 a particularly alluring and poised expression. Gorgeous complexity of apricot, peach, baked apple, clove, even a hint of kerosene and lingering exotic spice, over a crunchy backbone of lime and lemon zest. It’s a full and rich style of medium sweetness […]

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Syrah, merlot and cabernet in almost equal parts makes for an unusual blend, and particularly for Martinborough, but the interplay of deep concentration and delightful freshness going on here is quite remarkable. Black pepper, mixed spice, plums and blackberries are propelled by a fine, gravelly tannin structure that captures the gravelly Martinborough terraces of its […]

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This is a chardonnay that boldly and confidently leads with texture and winemaking complexity ahead of pure fruit expression. With air and time, the fruit is given opportunity to shine. And shine it does, with reflections of apple, pear and grapefruit, focused and linear, streaming through a long, textural finish. $41 at Dan’s.

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After a morning at De Bortoli last week I’m stoked about what new releases next year will bring, and even the challenging 2011 vintage is full of surprises. The 2010s are on form, and Emu epitomises the diverse expression of De Bortoli’s vineyard sites. Not far from the De Bortoli estate, the soils here make […]

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I have admired its wines for years, but visited Wantirna for the first time just last week and discovered an immaculately tended vineyard on a glorious site in an unusual location that can best be described as Melbourne suburbia, mid-way between the Yarra and the Mornington. Amelia was the star, with sensational purity and poise […]

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A rosé that really does smell and taste like roses, from the delightfully named Champagne village of Chigny-les-Roses! Delicate and restrained perfume of just-picked strawberries, with a creamy bead and soft minerality melding seamlessly with subtle dosage. There is not a molecule out of place, such is its impeccable balance and pure refinement.

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In its thirtieth vintage, Ata Rangi Pinot Noir is a classic rather than a blockbuster. This cool, early season has coaxed out bright, herbal purity. Red cherries, pink peppercorns, fresh rose petals and nuances of bouquet garni play over a silky tannin structure of firm texture, wonderfully integrated already but with the energy and endurance […]

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Lehmann’s first ever straight quaffing sauvignon has swooped in and outdone every one of his entry wines this year (yes, even riesling!). Besides the legendary Mike Press, this must be the cheapest sauv in the Hills. Rarely does true varietal and regional character come with such definition under $10. Fresh apple and pear fruit, lime […]

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A day with Bill Downie last week unveiled the most groundbreaking new venture in Australian wine this year, and you’ll hear all about it as soon as the wine hits the ground next year. In the meantime, Bill Downie and Jason Seale have conjured the perfect antipasto partner. Capturing the cool, savoury restraint of King […]

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