The speedometer on the back label puts it a notch off bone-dry, but such is the shard of razor-edged acidity that slices through its core that any suggestion of sweetness is completely obliterated. Its searing, metallic structure promises wonderful things well into the next decade.

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With a beautifully pure rose petal and red cherry fragrance and a firm silky tannin backbone, there is an interplay here reminiscent of the ethereal highlights of Chambolle-Musigny. Nuances of cherry kernel linger through an elegantly restrained palate of lingering strawberry fruits and subtle herbal complexity. $37 at myCellars.

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Shock: Teusner’s finest wine this year is not mataro, grenache or shiraz, nor does it hail from the Barossa Valley. His brand new cabernet from the lofty heights of the border of High Eden is gorgeously fragrant and exactingly varietal. Charged with cool natural acidity, it’s vibrant with violets, cassis, red- and blackcurrants, capsicum and […]

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An enticingly affordable way to discover the joys of pinot meunier in all of its white peach roundness, wild strawberry freshness and marshmallow precociousness, all kept in obedient line thanks to no malolactic fermentation and low dosage. $45 at Cracka and Jimmy Watson’s, $50 at Grays.

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Méo-Camuzet’s négociant wines aren’t a patch on its home-grown domaine offerings, and Philibert is the most affordable way to get a patch of the good turf. It’s rounded and fruity with juicy white peach on the front, quickly pulling into a determined, structured, lingering finish. An impressive vintage for this vineyard. $50 at Steves.

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I’ve been buying Rockford’s fabled black fizz for fifteen years but never have I seen it cleaner and more refined than the August 2011 disgorgement. Polished Barossa black fruits, dark choc and mixed spice with refined tannins and a long, pure finish. The legend is alive and well. Buy at the cellar door in person […]

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The stars have aligned and one of Australia’s most celebrated chardonnay talents has caressed the fruits of the Yarra’s greatest Grand Cru site in the finest vintage in years. The result is one of the top five Australian chardonnays I’ve tasted in the past three years. Just 3444 bottles will vanish in no time, especially […]

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The gorgeous seductive perfume and succulent red fruits of Champagne’s two finest pinot noir villages are on full display here, maintaining an elegant refinement and restrained subtlety. One of the best value rosés this year at $65 at Prince Wine Stores.

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Need a smart red for the masses this silly season? Properly made, mature vine Langhorne Creek shiraz has no right to be sold off at cleanskin prices, so get in fast. Impressive, plush fruit depth and presence of black plums and berries, with supportive dark choc oak. Perfect for Christmas with the in-laws. Ho, ho, […]

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Geographe produces a finer and more restrained chardonnay than its illustrious neighbour, Margaret River, making this pretty little almost unoaked thing a delightful summertime quaffer. Pristine lemon blossom, grapefruit, white peach and even some chalky minerality. $13.50 at United Cellars.

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