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When we awarded this wine Best Wine of Show as I chaired the Geographe Wine Show last week, we had no idea it was $13 at Dan Murphy’s. When the announcement was made, I could hear the collective cheer from wine drinkers across the world, all the way from WA! Yes, it is every bit […]

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Geographe is Margaret River for an economic crisis, producing ever more classy cabernet and shiraz at a fraction of the price of its neighbour. We awarded this restrained and textural wine the trophy for best shiraz in the Geographe Wine Show last week. Discover what all the fuss is about for just $13 at Dan’s.

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Geographe’s extensive plantings of the late 1990s are reaching their magical teenage years now, and the standard across the region is on a fast trajectory to the heavens. Thankfully, the prices are not, and this vibrant, crunchy, 1997 planted blend from the dedicated Phil Smith is an age-worthy bargain.

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Over sauvignon? Time to experience the next level! Section 94 is NZ’s most legendary sauv, meshing zesty lime and capsicum with the glorious hazelnut complexities of barrel fermentation. A wine of structure, drive, line and length, all it needs is age to really sing. $28 at Kemeny’s, $30 at WineStar.

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Mount Pleasant’s arsenal of shiraz found a form in 2009 that it hasn’t enjoyed in years, and I can’t remember when Rosehill exuded such beautiful and elegant red cherry and black plum fruit. Fine, mineral tannins complete the picture. Give it time for oak to integrate. $27 at Kemeny’s, $30 at WineStar.

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Mark ‘Mess’ Messenger’s Zin vies with Cape Mentelle for best in the country every year and wins on account of name, let alone price (half!). Well crafted and textural, with layers of mixed spice, rhubarb, plums and fruit cake taming 15% alcohol. $26 at www.mrwines.com

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Cape Mentelle Chardonnay has cemented its place among Margaret River’s A-league, but the price remains tantalisingly affordable. More chiselled and crafted than ever, in a restrained style of profound definition, determined linearity and assured longevity. $34 at WineStar, $37 at Dan’s.

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The notorious heatwave of 2008 has produced a rounder and more drying expression of Arrivo, but it has done nothing to interrupt the beautiful varietal expression of this benchmark nebbiolo. Rose petal, potpourri, liquorice and blueberries are kept in line by firm, fine tannins and vibrant acidity. $48 at www.arrivo.com.au

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A chardonnay of personality and distinction, laced with complexity of grapefruit and white peach and nuanced with charcuterie, flint and wisps of gentle spice. Well-composed fruit length leads into a finely-honed tail of soft minerality and delicately structured acidity. Carefully handled oak contributes mixed spice to the finish.

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Released too early to be labelled as a vintage, Geoffroy’s gorgeous rosé hails entirely from the outstanding 2008 harvest. Saignée skin contact extracts delightful texture and structure from pinot noir, giving sophistication to its soft raspberry, strawberry, pomegranate and watermelon flavours. $95 at www.champagnegallery.com.au

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