The holy grail of winemaking is to portray site above variety, season and maker. By this standard, this is one of the finest Adelaide Hills shirazes of the modern era. Resonating with this remarkable vineyard, expressing its moods with unprecedented clarity in mineral tannins and classic Adelaide Hills hints of rain on granite. Great concentration, […]
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This is the finest sub-$40 chardonnay I have ever tasted. Mr Chardonnay, Dave Bicknell, has conjured new levels of purity, definition and focus of grapefruit, lemon and white peach, flowing into a very long finish that glistens with minerality and taut acid tension. Underlying nuances of complexing charcuterie and fine almond French oak never distract […]
readSome Clare rieslings have suffered this year but here’s proof that generalisations are pointless. A classic Grosset without one molecule out of place, singing with a fragrance of white flowers and citrus blossom. It’s poised, pure and lively, lingering with mineral structure and sensational line and length.
readBest ever! OK, so the 2010 was the first, but I adore it and the 2011 is even more pristine, pure and immaculate. Subtle, impeccably gauged sweetness and delightful, lingering minerality. An intricately crafted wine that should come with a warning: once you start it’s impossible to put down your glass.
readThe cool 2011 season has made for a generous and rich expression of this legendary, centuries-old vineyard, revived exactly 50 years ago. Red apple, kaffir lime zest, nutmeg, lemon juice and that signature minerality of this site. No complaints about an earlier drinking season, especially at $14 at Dan’s.
readBeautiful in colour (pale salmon), in perfume and in texture, laced with poached pears, wild honey and guava on a beautifully textured lemon zest palate. Exactingly crafted and amibidextrous in its food-partnering skills.
readAbsolutely legendary in its ethereal expression, this wine has no right to be $87 at Dan’s. Mesmeric bouquet of black cherries, graphite, exotic spice, violets and rose petals. A devastating palate sets pepper and exotic spice in a sea of finely textured, firmly poised tannins. Remarkable length, line, poise.
readGilles Dumangin is the hardest worker in all of Champagne and his 2002 brims with all the freshness, restraint and determination of what will likely be the greatest vintage of the decade. It sings with youthful lemon and white peach, with layers of toast, nuts and honey. $64 at Vintage Cellars.
readFelton Road is my favourite producer in all of New Zealand right now and this wine is a large part of the reason. 2010 is as vintage you must not miss, more exuberant than ever in its violets, black cherries, exotic spice and pot pourri. It’s rich with mulberry fruit and laced with perfume from […]
readMagnificent concentration and fruit power, all the while honed, tight, mineral, linear. Wonderfully complex, crafted and characterful; brilliant nuances of lees-derived complexity of charcuterie and bacon fat, without losing its taut line of lemon zest and honed white peach. $40 at Kemeny’s & Dan’s.
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