I have long admired Frux Frugis, and 2012 will go down among the very finest, parading a core of polished black fruits nothing short of downright fantastic. It’s a gorgeous expression of old vine McLaren Vale shiraz in succulent black cherry, blackberry and satsuma plum fruit with hints of liquorice and anise. 24 months in […]
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In these days of instant gratification we are at times guilty of underestimating the great, long-ageing cellaring specials on release. We excuse top Bordeaux, Burgundy and Barolo and we celebrate their most enduring vintages. The Barossa deserves the same respect, and Old Block won’t show its full colours for at least a decade. It’s still […]
readThe evolution of refinement at Craggy Range over the past decade has been something to behold, with vine age permitting harvest at lower sugar ripeness and more sensitive use of oak as a textural element rather than a flavour component. The estate attained a wonderful crescendo in the “cracker” 2013 vintage, and Le Sol is […]
readThere is an elegant, light-footed restraint and refreshing lemon zest purity to this cuvée, while projecting the full depth and breadth of pinot noir from the Aube district in the south of Champagne in characters of blueberry and strawberry hull. It’s lively and vibrant, with primary fruit focus accented with a hint of brioche, well-integrated […]
readWith an extra year of lees age and another year of bottle age, this cuvée has blossomed since I last saw it. Youthful apple and pear fruit have matured to a more contemplative place of brioche, honey and mixed spice and its firm acidity and phenolic texture have pulled into a refined poise. A celebration […]
readThe Lilbert family have been champagne growers since 1746 and today Georges Lilbert produces just 30 000 bottles of blanc de blancs from 3.5 hectares spread across 15 low-yielding plots, largely in the grand crus of Chouilly, Oiry and, most of all, Cramant. These are high-strung, structured wines that are matured for at least five […]
readA beautifully even assemblage of yellow and red fruits with subtle charcuterie notes of barrel fermentation. The biscuity, ginger complexity and creamy, buttery, silky mouthfeel of long lees age lingers on the finish, softening the tension of the season to make for a gentle and immediately approachable take on 2008. It looked tense and edgy […]
readRosé represents a considerable one-third of production for Marguet, and this is his fourth vintage release. He blends using black glasses as colour is not his interest, though 7% red wine here lends an accurate medium salmon hue. Tangy pink grapefruit, strawberry hull and lemon tussle with savoury boiled sausage notes of barrel fermentation. A […]
readThe entry wine of the house is an elegant and compelling apéritif of lively and focused lemon and white peach fruit, with the subtle support of brioche and a fine backbone of chalk mineral structure, culminating in fine acid line, understated persistence and a soft, creamy bead. $85 from Shop for Wine.
readTrue to the crystalline purity and lemon juice freshness of this outstanding season, this is a focused and energetic release for Taittinger, evenly synergising the lemon juice and strawberry fruit of this enduring vintage with the toasted brioche complexity of six years ageing on yeast lees. This rounds out the incisive acid line of 2008, […]
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