I adored the smashing inaugural 2011, even though the wizards at Lehmann received a few disturbed emails from those who found the reductive struck match and flint character to be too much. From a warmer season, the 2012 was never going to be its equal, even with the reductive complexity toned down. There’s still plenty […]

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Heggies is consistently one of the finest botrytis wines in South Australia, and 2012 is particularly impressive. Acid is the key, carrying the finish long and even, balancing succulent, juicy, ripe peach, fresh fig, honey and crunchy lemon zest character. There’s great complexity of mixed spice and baked apple along the way. $22 at Dan’s.

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This single vineyard on hard soil at the back of Mt McKenzie is on quite a trajectory. In 2009, it was the first in Eden Valley to make Lehmann’s highest classification of Stonewell. In 2013 it made the next tier down of VSV. Here it is in 2012, from 12 year old vines, standing alone […]

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Eden Hall’s rieslings age beautifully, and at five years of age its museum release is but half way through its life. An impressively lively style, evolving in slow motion to build toast and spice character over a well-defined core of granny smith and lime fruit. A riesling of impressive carry and seamless persistence. $19 at […]

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Contours is one of the great Australian mature release rieslings and 2008 one of the A-league, particularly youthful for its age. It’s all about citrus and stone fruits, holding impressive fruit poise in spite of its years, just beginning to hint at toasty nuttiness. Outstanding persistence and even, enduring intensity. $25 at The Glass and […]

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Colin Forbes’ Cellar Matured Riesling is backward and lively at seven years of age, a wine of great persistence, accurate line and lively mineral acidity. Impressive fruit concentration is supported by rising toasty complexity. A bargain at $26 at Edinburgh Cellars.

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Built for the long-haul, this is a honed, streamlined, razor-structured riesling of high acid endurance. Fragrant lime blossom and granny smith apple are presented in crystal-clear fidelity. It will be some time before it’s released, and even longer before it reaches its best. Patience. $25 at Dan’s (2005).

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All things considered, Wigan is my favourite Eden Valley riesling. 2008 is an earlier drinking vintage, which you can take as your invitation to get stuck in right away. Lime drop and fig intensity meet lime zest definition and the complexity of toast, butter and mixed spice. A riesling of outstanding persistence and textural mouth […]

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Is it just me, or is Virgilius becoming more refined, complex and textural with each new vintage? I love the modern expression of this label and 2010 encapsulates its finer points more precisely than ever: a brilliant green tint to a pale straw hue; effortless, low alcohol balance; layers of struck flint and gunpowder complexity; […]

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Introducing a benchmark vintage for one of the Barossa’s long-lived flagships. This is a magnificent, show-stopping wine of great structure and poise, with more flesh and depth than the 2004 that preceded it. At eight year of age it retains an amazingly vibrant purple hue. The palate is remarkably poised, characterised by brilliant definition of […]

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