This spicy and textural style relies equally on stony texture from the stony Gimblett Gravels as it does on acidity to build tension, structure and definition. Impressive grapefruit spice and lemon blossom sit over white peach and pear, carried through a long finish, accented with zesty acidity. $32 at Wine Style.
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For all the fame of Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc and its ever-rising success with pinot noir, chardonnay has been the quiet member of the family, never quite meeting the grade. Until now. There’s an understated confidence to this wine, a seamless inner harmony and a refined texture that unravels slowly through the palate. It’s elegant, […]
readNew Zealand’s most celebrated chardonnay maker has just raised its own game. 2009 is the finest season yet at Kumeu River, and if there’s one wine you must not miss, it’s Hunting Hill. The Brajkovichs are slowly recognising the pedigree of this vineyard, always the first picked of the estate, and in future it will […]
readCoddington is Kumeu River’s richest, ripest source of chardonnay, producing a powerful wine of confident structure and intense fruit of honed lemon, grapefruit and peach, verging on apricot. Yet at every moment it maintains the house style of chiselled structure, excellent acid drive and impressive mouthfeel, layered with texture, lingering very long. $46 at Cellar […]
readAn outstanding season for Ata Rangi’s premium chardonnay, a wine that builds slowly and evenly into a long, poised finish of mineral texture matched to the subtlety of its fruit, yet upholding a depth and confidence of its own. An enticing bouquet of white flower perfume, lemon juice and pristine white peach introduces an impeccably […]
readThis is a mesmerising vintage for Block 2, promising to rank among the longest lived yet. Monumental complexity of struck flint and bacon fat provides dimension to this energetically vivacious style, drawn out tight by a high-tensile wire of acidity, melding seamlessly with lemon zest, grapefruit, crunchy pear and almost ripe white peach fruit. The […]
readNever have I seen a set of New Zealand chardonnays more stunning than Kumeu River’s 2009s, and Mate’s leads the parade. As always, this is the last vineyard picked on the estate, yielding a wine of refined energy, coiled-up tension, profound texture and restrained finesse. A persistence of grand cru Burgundian proportions lingers long and […]
readEvery time I look, the refinement of De Bortoli’s Yarra Valley operation has further infiltrated its Riverina headquarters. This brand new bargain basement chardonnay is a celebration of this philosophy, infused with the vibrant tang of cool 2011 vintage acidity. A zesty, refreshing style, singing with grapefruit, lemon zest and white peach. Best price direct.
readRob Mann quietly mentioned to me recently that he reckons 2011 to represent the finest reds he’s made in Margaret River yet. A monumental statement, considering the mesospheric standards he has set in 2008, 2009 and 2010. We’ll have to wait until next year for the full answer, but if Marmaduke is any indication, there […]
readPredominantly from the cooler southern half of Margaret River, this delightfully refined sauvignon is one of Georgiana’s most gracious expressions yet. A beautiful perfume of fragrant elegance focuses in on granny smith apple, grapefruit and lemon blossom. The palate faithfully continues the theme of honed, zesty poise and consummate restraint. $13 at Amatos.
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