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JR is legendary among Coonawarra cabernets and only recently has it really found its mojo. 2008 is reticent, lurking, with deep black fruits, powerful concentration and oak integration that defines the modern era of JR. Excellent palate completeness, length and line, bringing calm control to its power.

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Moda is supercharged by drying the bunches on racks for a week to increase concentration. It’s inky and powerful, with blackcurrant, cassis, dark choc oak and very firm, finely structured tannins. It maintains its poise thanks to a vibrant violet lift and a long, focused finish. Outstanding Moda.

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A chardonnay of delicacy and structure, built around a lemon blossom bouquet and a palate of finely structured minerality and lingering texture. Subtle lees complexity and understated almond oak support citrus and white peach fruit of finesse and restrained determination. $47.50 at Dan’s.

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V&A Lane is the axis of Coonawarra and home to some of its finest vineyards (including Majella) producing very refined tannins. Wynns owns the lion’s share and the cabernet shiraz blend is the finest and longest-lived expression. Cabernet blackcurrants, shiraz spice and monumental, velvety tannins.

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“Barwang” may not ring with class, but just taste the wine! 842 is the altitude and the explanation for this nuanced, textural, cool, mineral, linear and restrained style of subtle grapefruit, white peach and classy vanillin oak. Give it a couple of years for oak to settle. $29 at Dan’s, $32 at Kemeny’s.

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Seamlessly assembled, capturing robust McLaren Vale richness, crunchy varietal distinction and tremendous complexity all at once – no easy achievement! Crunchy blackcurrants, vibrant redcurrants, capsicum, tobacco leaf and olive, then deep, dark choc oak and firm, integrated tannins.

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Happy 25th birthday to one of Margaret River’s first SSBs! Gorgeous bouquet of lemon blossom, granny smith apple, pink grapefruit and musk. The palate is perfumed, fresh and fruity with all of the same, underpinned by finely textural minerality. Why wait until summer? $22 at Dan’s.

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I’ve been drinking this stuff for fifteen years, and I don’t remember it having ever been this restrained and delicate, with a pretty lemon blossom perfume, lemon juice palate and chalky minerality. At $13 at Kemeny’s, $14 at Dan’s you can afford a case to see in Spring and another to see in 2016!

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Chasing a cab to crack tomorrow night? You’ll find plenty of eager contenders in this list, but not this one. A robust, long-term style with a core of vibrant blackcurrant fruit and a wall of firmly structured cabernet tannins, with dark choc oak in support. Goes with kangaroo and gorilla.

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Three-and-a-half years old and swinging well above its weight, this is cabernet of impressive concentration and definition of blackcurrant and cassis fruit. There’s a violet perfume lift and a lingering finish of crunchy acidity and soft tannins. Impressive BBQ quaffer for $9.50 at Dan’s.

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