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Welcome to the very first edition of The Champagne Guide! Pop a cork of something fine and frothy, pour yourself a large glass and settle in. There’s a world of champagne to be discovered!

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The number of corked, stale and lightstruck champagnes in Australia this year is appalling.

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It is not without considerable reluctance that I introduce a hierarchy of classification of champagne houses. I have thrown political correctness to the wind and taken the liberty of using the full breadth of a ten point scale

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What do expanding boundaries, rising yields and an antiquated cru classification mean for the future of Champagne?

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If you believed all the commentary, you’d have to conclude that the Champagne that we know and love is all but doomed.

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To contemporary France, the answer to the industrialisation and increasingly brand-driven mentality of the modern wine world is to work to express every nuance of terroir in its full detail. In this France, Champagne is the precise antithesis.

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By some miracle the drab hillsides of Champagne produce fruits that thousands of winegrowers around the globe strive to emulate yet none has equalled.

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After this year, I won’t be buying sparkling wine in quite the same way again. I’ve always said there’s a very simple rule for choosing a bottle of bubbles in Australia. If you’re spending under $50, buy Australian fizz every time. If you’re shelling out more, always buy champagne. Not any more.

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There has been a frenzy of discussion on Twitter today as to why the four winners of trophies and gold medals in The Great Australian Red 2010 were from three big companies: Jacob’s Creek, Penfolds and Yalumba. Chance? Or is there something more in this?

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The judging of The Great Australian Red this week saw a higher proportion of gold and silver medals awarded than in any other year in the five year history of the competition. The calibre of entries as a whole was the highest that we have ever seen. This confirms the rising quality of Australia’s cabernet shiraz blend, all the more noteworthy in a year when three-quarters of the entries came from the challenging 2007, 2008 and 2009 seasons.

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