Is this the best sub-$20 pinot of the moment? Yes. Just don’t drink it yet. Pristine purity of red berry and red cherry fruit of cool, high, Upper Yarra elegance is charged with an energising line of lively acidity and a finely textured backbone of well-crafted tannins. It has charisma, elegance and coiled potential, promising […]

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By Tim Adams standards, this is a pale gris, though it’s lacking nothing in complexity. Lovely aromatics of lychees, white peach and wild honey announce a succulent and slippery style, accented with ginger and mixed spice, backed by well poised acidity and a long-lingering finish. Benchmark gris of carefully balanced fruit, sweetness, phenolic texture and […]

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Character and texture in a value-for-money GSM. This is a spicy and savoury assemblage of rhubarb and strawberry fruit overlaid with dried herbs. It’s finely structured and textural, with some dry grip on the finish, though upholding a vibrant focus thanks to well-balanced fruit. $17 at Wine Culture, Nillumbik, No Frills, Aussie Wines and Wine […]

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Hoddles Creek overlays zesty, cool, high Upper Yarra chardonnay with layers of leesy, charcuterie barrel ferment complexity. The result looks a lot more sophisticated than its price lets on: structured, textural, tense and persistent, with plenty of potential in the cellar. $19 at Barrique.

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David Forrest’s vineyard has one of the highest elevations in the Barossa, producing cabernet of density and intensity, layered with cassis, blackcurrants, liquorice and dark chocolate. It declares the depth and glossy succulence of great Eden Valley fruit, yet at the same time it’s tangy, controlled and finely structured, with vibrant, high altitude acidity and […]

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Immediately after tasting this wine, I dove straight into my cellar and opened a bottle of Peter Lehmann Reserve Riesling 2002, the predecessor of Wigan and one of my favourite Australian rieslings of all time. My hope was that the 2009 might be on the same level. It’s not. But, blimey, it’s not far off. […]

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From the steep, gravelly, 1970s- planted slopes of the historic Langton vineyard in Mt Barker, this is a wine that sings of old vine character and great site expression. It’s magnificent now in its purity and drive of lemon, lime, red apple and crunchy pear, and it promises to live long, thanks to a backbone […]

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Jeffrey Grosset ranks this among the most appealing releases of this wine in recent times. To me his 22nd release of this blend of 75% Clare Valley semillon and 25% Adelaide Hills sauvignon blanc is a brilliantly engineered SSB for the long-haul. It’s a beautifully floral style of lily blossom and lime fruit, capturing impressive […]

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To obtain such complexity and richness and yet uphold fresh, tangy, energetic acidity is the key to the greatest sweet wines, and Stephanie has nailed it this vintage. In aroma, flavour, intensity, structure and vitality this release is a step up even from the magnificence that we have come to expect from this label. It […]

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Delicacy without bracing acidity is a fine line in cool climate chardonnay, and PHI strikes an impeccable balance in 2012. With intricate purity, magnificent tension and detailed focus, this is an exceptional release for one of the Yarra’s great chardonnays. Struck flint and delicate lemon zest define a well honed yet impeccably seamless palate of […]

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