Colin Forbes’ Cellar Matured Riesling is backward and lively at seven years of age, a wine of great persistence, accurate line and lively mineral acidity. Impressive fruit concentration is supported by rising toasty complexity. A bargain at $26 at Edinburgh Cellars.
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Built for the long-haul, this is a honed, streamlined, razor-structured riesling of high acid endurance. Fragrant lime blossom and granny smith apple are presented in crystal-clear fidelity. It will be some time before it’s released, and even longer before it reaches its best. Patience. $25 at Dan’s (2005).
readAll things considered, Wigan is my favourite Eden Valley riesling. 2008 is an earlier drinking vintage, which you can take as your invitation to get stuck in right away. Lime drop and fig intensity meet lime zest definition and the complexity of toast, butter and mixed spice. A riesling of outstanding persistence and textural mouth […]
readIs it just me, or is Virgilius becoming more refined, complex and textural with each new vintage? I love the modern expression of this label and 2010 encapsulates its finer points more precisely than ever: a brilliant green tint to a pale straw hue; effortless, low alcohol balance; layers of struck flint and gunpowder complexity; […]
readIntroducing a benchmark vintage for one of the Barossa’s long-lived flagships. This is a magnificent, show-stopping wine of great structure and poise, with more flesh and depth than the 2004 that preceded it. At eight year of age it retains an amazingly vibrant purple hue. The palate is remarkably poised, characterised by brilliant definition of […]
readAndrew Wigan likens 2009 to 1999: An underrated, unnoticed vintage, sandwiched between two great years. The effect is exacerbated by the sheer magnificence of 2010. 2009’s claim to fame is the first inclusion of Eden Valley fruit in Stonewell, contributing brightness and life. The Stonewell oak regime has been progressively downplayed for decades, and even […]
readAn elegant lunchtime pinot, blended from East Coast and Lower Tamar Valley vineyards. It’s a fresh and lively young thing, accented with pink pepper and beetroot character, underlined by tangy morello cherry notes. It’s elegant, precocious and varietal, backed by finely textured tannins and more than respectable length. $16 at Dan Murphy’s.
readA new label from Tassie’s rising star, Nick Glaetzer. “I’ve always been a fan of Beaujolais Nouveau, and this year I ran out of 2012 before the 2013 came on, so this was a great way to fill the gap,” he told me when I visited recently. It’s more than just a stopgap wine, an […]
readSteve Lubiana is upping the ante with his second label pinot noir. Once made in stainless steel, it’s now fully matured in barriques. The fruit is on the rise, too, sourced from estate vines of 10 and 14 years of age and supplemented with purchased fruit. Black cherry, strawberry and plum are the themes, with […]
readPraxis is Moorilla’s modern, fruit-focused, early drinking range and its recently released pinot noir meets the brief precisely. It’s elegant and pretty, with a core of tangy red cherries, ripe strawberries and rose petal fragrance. A finely textured tannin structure is seamlessly integrated, making it ready to go right away. $27 at Trio Wine.
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