After 28 years in Rutherglen, Chris Pfeiffer is proof that it doesn’t take centuries to build a great heritage of fortified winemaking. The average age here is ten years, building depth of walnut complexity to primary characters of fig, tea leaves and glacé orange. Sweetness is well balanced and persistence is impressive. $28 at Dan’s.

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Stanton & Killeen’s vintage fortifieds hold legendary status, an essential inclusion in the back corner of every cellar, because we can’t all afford to drink Vintage Port all the time. These are wines to leave undisturbed for a very long time, and 2008 has more endurance than ever, thanks to a cool summer blessing it […]

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Such textural finesse is rarely found in McLaren Vale. Mealy, leesy complexity is juxtaposed by the primary freshness of grapefruit blossom and the zesty linearity of the cool 2011 season to produce a style of honed restraint and fine-grained structure.

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Drop for unctuous drop, this full-sized bottle represents one of the best value fortifieds you’ll find on the streets at just $13 (Dan Murphy’s). I have no idea how they can make a wine of six years average age at this price (and there’s a touch of 20-25 year old material here to add depth). […]

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With blend components dating back to 2007, this is a young, fresh muscat with a potpourri and apricot jam fragrance. It’s intense, viscous and fruity, with a long, sweet, pure finish. Brilliant value at $17 for a full-sized bottle direct from the cellar door.

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With lingering persistence and lively freshness, this is a well-assembled blend at a bargain price. It’s sweet, primary and packed with apricot jam, marmalade, fig paste, raisins and spice of all kinds. $20 at Dan Murphy’s and direct.

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Morris’ second tier muscat is one of the finest fortifieds on the shelves under $20 ($17 at Dan Murphy’s). It’s masterfully blended to capture fresh liveliness in the midst of lingering complexity and balanced sweetness. An air of Turkish delight and rose petals wafts over apricot, honey, fruit cake and dark chocolate.

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S&K’s Classic is an average of twelve years of age, retaining excellent fresh lift of potpourri and rose petal fragrance. The palate is luscious and sweet, full of apricots and raisins and lingering spice. It finishes lively and spirity, with impressive persistence. $28 at Bicton Cellars and Wine Box Warehouse.

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Campbell’s Classic is neck-and-neck with Stanton & Killeen’s, just across the road, but the style is a world away. There’s a feeling of richer depth and greater viscosity here, venturing into territory of roasted nuts, glacé peach, honey and complex layers of fruit cake. It retains its life in primary apricot, peach and fig flavours, […]

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This goes down among the highest scores I’ve ever thrown at a wine of this price, and it’s as low as $38 duty free (Downtown Duty Free, Sydney Duty Free and First Tax Duty Free). Never have I seen Morris Grand as magnificent as it looks right now, with a depth of colour and flavour […]

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