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There’s an effortless endurance to Freycinet Chardonnay that took me by complete surprise in a 23 year vertical recently, with the warm vintage 1994 still shining, even under cork. Made from the same, original Freycinet plantings, now 33 years of age, 2012 looks set to go down among the finest vintages yet. It’s an alluringly […]

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Sinapius stood out in a line of 2012 Tasmanian chardonnays because it didn’t display the intense fruit or overt oak of many of the wines around it. Instead, an understated elegance that makes it quite sophisticated. Lemon and white peach, even lime, are the themes here, with a subtle lemon blossom lift. Supportive cashew nut […]

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Lady A is a sauvignon blanc like no other. Drawing inspiration firmly from Bordeaux, and emphatically at odds with most renditions of this variety from everywhere else, this is a wine of main course proportions, fermented and matured for a year in 100% new French oak, no less. On its release, the 2010 is but […]

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Nick Glaetzer now makes two Uberblancs with the same name. This is the one with the red dots on the label. A blend of 60% Tamar and 40% Coal River Valley, this is a textural and structured riesling of slatey mouth feel and excellent persistence. It’s backward an lively for an 18 month old, upholding […]

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A refreshingly priced and refreshingly styled riesling from Tasmania’s east coast and lower Tamar Valley, with cool, pure definition of kaffir lime, granny smith apple and pepper character. A high-tensile line of Tassie acidity draws it out long and taut, promising considerable potential in the cellar. $17 at Cracka and Trio Wine.

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A fragrant and floral riesling that captures the tension of southern Tasmania in high-wire acidity. Notes of lemon blossom, mandarin and kaffir lime linger very long and tense amidst enticing notes of pine nettles. Give it time for acidity to soften. $19 at Dan Murphy’s.

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A 15-vintage vertical declared how magnificently Freycinet Riesling can age, particularly since 2003, the first under screw cap, and one of the greatest Tasmanian rieslings I’ve tasted. 2013 is impressively elegant, delightfully alluring and breathtakingly floral, dancing with graceful lime, lemon blossom and granny smith apple purity. Its acidity is already well integrated, soft yet […]

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A cellaring special, this is a beautifully honed and linear riesling that rides on a high-tensile rail of Tamar Valley acidity. It’s crunchy, honed and intricately pure in its expression of kaffir lime, lemon zest and apple blossom, with a finely textured, mineral mouth feel. $17.50 at Discount Wines and Jim Murphy.

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A commanding riesling that demands time to soften, in spite of its alluring appeal. A pretty bouquet declares granny smith apple, kaffir lime zest and pepper aromas. The palate is beautifully pure, impeccably honed and intricately structured, with a fine, slatey, mineral mouth feel and a razor line of acidity. $18 at Cracka.

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At an unctuous 205g/L residual sugar, this is at the sweet end of Australian dessert riesling, yet it holds itself with considerable composure thanks to exceptional acid drive to counter this considerable sweetness, creating a wonderful synergy of tension. A wine of excellent length and balance, dripping with a preserved lemon, ripe apricot, locut, nectarine, […]

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