What impresses me most about Arras mastermind Ed Carr is that in spite of his clear talent and success, he’s always listening, forever learning, and constantly refining his craft. I’ve found his style a little sweet at times, but this is changing, and his 2005 comes in at a low 7.1g/L of dosage, a gram […]
readArticles
Chardonnay is the core of Jansz, Natalie Fryar has long aspired to make a “pinnacle” chardonnay, and the “cracker” 2007 vintage presented the opportunity, “a vintage in which you look like a hero just by showing up!” Capturing the character of a riper year in its intense fruit expression, this is a creamy, lemony, brioche-accented […]
readA new star is about to rise in the Clover Hill firmament, and it’s brighter and more dazzling than any before it. After eight years on lees and a period under a reliable DIAM, there is an enduring stamina on display here that’s rarely seen outside Champagne itself. The fine, precise drive of cool Tasmanian […]
readAfter the very restrained 2001, Ed Carr describes 2002 as a very challenging vintage to get his head around, with a lot of unevenness in fruit ripeness. A testimony to his talent, there’s no suggestion of this a decade on. Instead, a true Australian prestige cuvée of remarkable persistence, great complexity and precise focus. Primary […]
readThe warm, dry 2013 season in Clare had the effect of concentrating the presence of flavour, acidity and phenolic structure, producing rieslings of intensity. In the right hands, these are even and harmonious wines of engaging appeal. O’Leary Walker has created one of the best value of this set, a pretty thing of kaffir lime […]
read2013 is a tightly honed vintage for Knappstein, precise in its lemon zest and lime juice definition and granny smith apple crunch. Alluring notes of fennel and anise fill out a concentrated and persistent palate. An impressive riesling of medium-term potential. $16 at Discount Wines, Wine List Australia, No Frills and Aussie Wines.
readAlongside O’Leary Walker’s Watervale, this release of Polish Hill is even more enchanting in its delicacy, effortless confidence and enduring longevity. Immaculately honed linear focus highlights lemon blossom and spicy kaffir lime zest, sustained by delightfully slaty mouth feel and long-lingering persistence. $19 at My Cellars.
readAt an altitude of 480m, Lodge Hill is among the highest vineyards in the Clare Valley, infusing the warm vintage of 2013 with a tightly defined acid profile. This is tactically softened by a subtle touch of sugar that doesn’t leave an impression of sweetness (just 2.5g/L, “extra dry” in champagne talk). It’s pretty and […]
readThree outstanding vintages in a row and Mort’s Block has cemented its position among the Clare’s best value set. The latest is a pure, focused and well-executed style that controls the phenolic structure of 2013 impeccably. It’s intense and persistent, with lovely vibrancy of talc, lemon pulp, lime zest and soft lemon pith texture, carried […]
readOne of the best rieslings from the Crabtree estate yet, a wine of concentrated fruit intensity and laser precision. A fragrant bouquet of lime blossom introduces a honed and even palate of pure kaffir lime and crunchy granny smith apple. $23 at Winecave.
read