We’ve all been waiting, with bated breath, for just what Rob Mann is capable of in Margaret River. Here it is, his third vintage, the season from the gods, every single berry individually selected, in slick new livery. A classical but low yielding year has produced gravelly, graphite-like tannins of Bordeaux classed-growth proportions, promising longevity […]
readIs Martinborough’s Ata Rangi New Zealand’s finest pinot or has that mantle transferred to Central Otago or Canterbury? I’ll happily continue the debate, glass in hand! Precision is the word here, with cherry kernel, pink pepper and rose petal underlined by silky tannins and gravelly Martinborough minerality. $60 at Dan’s, $66 at Kemeny’s.
readLe Mesnil sur Oger is the supernova of the blanc de blancs firmament and Bernard Launois lays claim to a generous chunk of it. His ultra-refreshing aperitif captures the minerality of the Côte des Blancs; restrained citrus and toast are supported by a balancing brush of delicate sweetness.
readThe cool 2010 season places this among Clonakilla’s most sophisticated viogniers. It’s exactingly put together, contrasting moods of textural and silky, creamy and taut, linear and mouth-filling. Apricot kernel, brioche, pear, vanilla bean and custard apple unite in seamless harmony. $45 at WineStar and www.clonakilla.com.au.
readRob Mann is a Jedi Master of structure. Here, for the first time, is the proof that his craft transcends the known universe of cabernet. This fortified death star of tannin demands at least a decade for its defences to come down, so don’t even dream of invading yet. $30 at WineStar, Kemeny’s & Dan’s.
readLike a shard of onyx, Ablington is chiselled and honed. Elegance, restraint and cool textural finesse meet a deep-set core of concentrated blackberries, coal, anise and black pepper. The interplay is captivating, played out against a backdrop of ultra-fine, textural tannins. A newcomer to hunt down.
readRob Mann visited for lunch this week, then drove to Sydney under an ash cloud! His work in the vineyard and winery has elevated Cape Mentelle to the top echelon of Margaret River and, my goodness, does it show in his definitively structured 08 and 09 reds! $23 at WineStar, $24 at Kemeny’s & Dan’s.
readDrayton’s vineyard is grand cru Hunter turf (think Brokenwood ILR and First Creek Semillon). Hart & Hunter may be brand new, but with the pedigree of this vineyard it’s instantly arisen to semillon stardom. The minerality of the site sings with full voice, holding incredible freshness and purity.
readBarrel fermented sauvignon is eliciting more exclamations of delighted astonishment than any other style in my wine courses this year. Mark Messenger (Juniper Estate) is a Margaret River quiet achiever who’s crafted this wine with impeccable restraint and texture instead of varietal pungency.
readPrunotto brings northern Italy to the masses, landing you securely in Piedmont without setting you back a first class airfare! Black cherries, anise and mixed spice finish vibrant and fresh with lively acidity and – crucially – softly textured tannins that beckon you right in. Buongiorno!
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