Australians all let us rejoice, for Voyager’s almost free! With boundless violet perfume to share, its palate abounds in nature’s gifts of tobacco, capsicum and blackcurrant. In joyful strains then let us drink! Advance Margaret River fare! $19 at WineStar, $20 at Kemeny’s.

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In these fleeting moments before the onslaught of 2011 sauv (steady!), be sure your 2010 punts have lasted the distance. Ninth Island is a Duracell bunny, zapped with such a charge of electric acidity that it will keep going for years! It could confidently stand in for sparkling to open proceedings. $17 at Dan’s.

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A strong contender for the worst wine name in history, and a label to match (avec streaker!), it’s just as well this publication is called Wine Taste and not Label Slut. Get over it and you’ll discover a delightfully crunchy red berry and pepper-loaded wine that’s spicy, gamey and, dare I say, even a bit […]

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Goodness gracious, talk about Under (priced) & Over (delivering)! Double the dollars and this spanking new brand is still a bargain. The Armchair Critic lads work for McWilliams by day, where they’ve sniffed out some legendary vineyards. Elegant, mineral, restrained grapefruit and white peach.

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Celebrating its 43rd birthday this year, this label is the grandfather of rosé champagne and it remains the benchmark of affordable elegance. To create such restraint from 100% pinot noir from grand cru vineyards using the less delicate saignée method of controlled maceration is nothing short of pure genius. $95 at Kemeny’s & Dan Murphy’s, […]

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I have always held Paradigm Hill in the utmost respect but have never before recommended L’Ami Sage because the oak never seemed to sit quite right. No longer! Tangy acidity and firm, fine, textural tannins propel pure black cherry fruit, cloves and nutmeg onwards and upwards. $47 at cellar door.

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An afternoon in Sancerre with the Vacheron lads taught me more about minerality, biodynamics and sauvignon with finesse than any other experience in my life. The 2010 has just landed and it’s a lesson all over again in textural poise, energy and line. Outstanding Sancerre.

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This is the freshest, finest, most oak-restrained, perfumed, exotically spiced and textural wine made under the great name of Katnook today, of any variety, at any price. The great cabernet shiraz blend triumphs again (with a tiny bit of support from petit verdot and tanat)! Buy direct from Katnook.

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This is not just a sauvignon, not just the best sauvignon that the Orange region has ever produced, not just the finest Orange wine of any variety that I have ever tasted. It has absolutely, fundamentally and forever changed my expectations of what this region can achieve. Cool, calm, textural, mineral, restrained, energetic, pure, driven. […]

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This label has been criticised for early picking gone too far. We praise white Burgundy and Chablis when it’s tightly wound, honed, mineral, restrained and age-worthy. Then a local chardonnay talent puts forward their most taut, high-strung and long-lived vintage ever and it gets written off. C’mon Aussie! $24 at Dan’s, $25 at Vintage Cellars.

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