Initiale is the most accessible and most affordable cuvée of Anselme Selosse’s inherently inaccessible and unaffordable range of cult grower champagnes. It represents more than two-thirds of his production and can be notoriously inconsistent, but this bottle purchased at his restaurant was stunning. Grand complexity is painted in broad brushstrokes of fig, marmalade, preserved lemon, […]
readStrangely, only made in half bottles and released earlier than usual, though the house couldn’t tell me why. Nonetheless, it’s even more magnificent now than it was on release, with delightfully complexity and depth of burnt butter, fig, ginger nut biscuits, dried peach and honey. It admirably upholds a refined focus, finely chalk mineral mouth […]
readMy opinions regarding 2003 champagne prestige cuvées that should never have been released are well known, so it was not without due apprehension that I approached Krug 2003 recently. Yes, this is a child of a hot and challenging vintage, yes it has softer acidity, more dry extract and more phenolic structure (true to the […]
readEverything about Salon is geared toward long-ageing potential: Only the first pressing is used, fermented cold in stainless steel tanks, and malolactic fermentation is completely blocked. The most definitive and legendary expression of champagne’s most confident, most commanding and arguably most age-worthy Côte des Blancs grand cru, Salon 2002 has been long anticipated. I first […]
readSomebody, somewhere has got to be losing money on this bottle – and it isn’t you. It’s come all the way from Spain and, unlike Australia’s meaningless “reserve”, the Spanish have strict rules to qualify for “reserva” status. At a full five years of age, it’s spent 12 months in oak barrels, and retains an […]
readAt a full price of all of $6, this is a surprisingly clean, well made and fruit-focused blend of chardonnay and pinot noir. Its apple and pear flavours culminate in a honeyed finish that’s ultimately short, simple and sweet, but at this price, who’s counting? Give it a stern chill and pour it liberally for […]
readA single vineyard in a high, cool location, will articulate the full swing of its seasons, and this is why Mike Press Shiraz oscillates from tightly-coiled, peppery elegance in vintages like 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012, to voluptuous, full-bodied stature in 2008. And 2013 is definitively the latter. Ripe plum and blackberry fruits of supple […]
readWith zesty, cool climate credentials and plenty of refreshing flavour, this is hands-down the best Mike Press Rosé yet. It leaps out of the glass with fragrant rose petals, raspberries, pomegranate and guava. The palate is at once elegant and flavoursome, tangy, fresh, fine and lemon-accented (there’s a touch of chardonnay in the blend), propelled […]
readMike Press is legendary for shiraz and cabernet, and now, too, for pinot noir. I have never before awarded a $15 pinot a gold medal score, but here you have it. This is not only my favourite Mike Press Pinot yet, it’s a solid contender for best sub-$15 wine of the year. And I’ve never […]
readBold new livery represents the fourth iteration of the Mike Press label design in nine years, and his name has become larger on each update. The latest redesign puts it confidently front and centre – and rightly so: his is now a cult name in affordable Australian wine circles, and releases like this will keep […]
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