Signature is on a dazzling trajectory, taking one of the Barossa’s most revered labels to new heights. 2006 represents its most exacting expression to date, though sneak-previews of 2010 on the show circuit suggest that all before it will be eclipsed in a dramatic spectacle. 2008 is an altogether different expression, a more generous Signature, […]
readArticles
Heytesbury is a more profound expression of the direction of modern Margaret River chardonnay than perhaps any other, capturing the fruit power of the region and encasing it in high-tensile structure, overlaid with funky gunflint and sulphide notes. This is winemaking on the edge: massive volumes of solids in the ferment, wild yeast and more […]
readA brilliant vintage of New Zealand’s most impressive syrah. The complexity on parade here is mesmerising: violets, satsuma plum skins, black pepper, blackberries and liquorice straps, even a hint of pitch and coal dust, and in time mixed spice, dried flowers and dark chocolate. A revelation of intensity, thought the density of fruit is never […]
readAdoring fans of one of the most elegantly graceful rosé champagnes on earth will immediately recognise a change of pace in the new vintage release. On paper, the recipe is identical, but 2004 was a very different season to 2002 and 2000 in Champagne. Before you even lift the glass you will note a fuller […]
readDrew Noon’s powerful reds were toned down a notch by the cool, wet 2011 vintage and his bargain quaffer has taken on an alluringly perfumed, savoury, spicy lift. Pink pepper, rose bud and savoury spice are expressive of both the season and the prominence of grenache in this McLaren Vale blend. Its undercurrent of savoury, […]
readFermented purely in tank, the focus remains squarely on zesty grapefruit and crunchy white peach fruit. Without the benefit of oak, a few clever tricks in the winery (gentle lees stirring and partial malolactic fermentation) build some texture and mouthfeel to this fresh and lively style. $19 at Hunt for Wine.
readI’ve learnt more about New Zealand chardonnay over the past decade from Kumeu River winemaker Michael Brajkovich than anyone else, and a recent visit revealed that the learning curve at this celebrated estate is as steep as ever. Clever techniques of lees ageing in tank, of pressing for both finesse and tannin texture and of […]
readNew Zealand is proving its credentials with chardonnay all the way from Kumeu in the north to Central Otago in the south, and here’s proof that the celebrated red wine turf of Hawke’s Bay is very much in the race. This barrel fermented style from the heart of limestone hill country delivery impressively soft and […]
readAuntsfield’s ancient soils of Marlborough’s southern valleys leave their stamp of consummately textured, stony mouthfeel that lingers long on the finish. Excellent acid drive and a determined persistence promise a strong future in the cellar. Right now it blossoms with lemon zest, white peach flesh and grapefruit perfume; its fruit presence refined and focused, understated […]
readNelson’s characteristically cool, maritime climate is preserved accurately in the focused, taut, energetic lemon zest and white peach fruit of this refined chardonnay. Its lingering, stony texture speaks of the stony soils of the region, leaving oak (French and even some American) to settle comfortably into the background. $26 at Cellar d’Or.
read