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For at least a decade, the coveted Trophy for the Best Current Vintage Semillon in the Hunter Valley Wine Show has been hotly contested by the more expensive semillons of the region. Quite a scandal was unleashed in the Hunter last week when both this trophy and the trophy for Best Current Vintage Dry White […]

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The third cool, wet vintage in a row has done nothing to slow the illustrious pace of progress at the finest estate in the Canberra district. The precision and intensity on display here are captivating, with a powerful kaffir lime juice core encased in notes of wet slate and granny smith apples. It surges with […]

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Finesse before power. True to the cool, wet 2011 vintage, this is a lighter, spicier and more textural rendition of Hilltops, laced with notes of violet perfume, crunchy blackberry fruit and an overlay of pepper. Fine, textural tannins carry its savoury fruit elegance long into the finish. A flattering style that makes for a compelling, […]

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I cannot recall any set of Australian aromatic wines as consistently breathtaking as Jeffrey Grosset’s 2012 releases. His off-dry riesling, named Alea for the first time, showcases fruit captured at the most exacting point in its ripeness to deliver the glories of pristine kaffir lime, crunchy granny smith apple and pure lemon zest. Such is […]

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Such is the pristine purity of this vintage that even a little time in old oak for the first time does nothing to interrupt its unreservedly honed focus and consummate control. Its fruit is immaculate, perfumed with pink grapefruit blossom, zesty with lime, even flamboyant with stone fruits, golden delicious apples and passionfruit. Signature Grosset […]

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There is much to revere in the Springvales of recent seasons, some vintages delivering unremitting control and exacting precision, others exemplifying inherent fruit power and concentration. Only the greatest seasons deliver both. Even in its extreme youth, there’s no doubt that 2012 will go down among the finest Springvales of all. As pure and precise […]

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A skilfully assembled wine that expresses pinpoint definition of cabernet’s hallmarks of capsicum, tobacco leaf and redcurrants, bathed in beautifully integrated yet firmly structured tannins. The vibrant and lively focus of Clare Valley definition propels it into a finish of seamlessly melded oak, impeccable line and impressive persistence. $35 at Cellar D’Or.

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Stephanie Toole is a master of capturing red wines of restraint, structural definition, poised acidity and low alcohol. The outstanding 2010 season epitomises her uncompromising focus, while simultaneously upholding impressive fruit concentration of immaculately ripe blackberry, black plum and liquorice. The restraint of the style provides space for the detail of site to be expressed […]

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There’s an entire spice kitchen woven into the folds of O’Riada: Bouquet garni, bay leaf, paprika, pot pourri and layers of white pepper over its crunchy red cherry and strawberry fruit. With a honed focus, this is a savoury and tightly structured expression of shiraz viognier, riding on firm rails of cool vintage acidity. Ultra-fine, […]

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The most sublime Polish Hills are breathtakingly gorgeous in their youth, and 2012 is the equal of the finest. Then it goes further. I cannot recall an Australian riesling of such refined poise, utter calm, magnificent concentration and devastating purity. Glorious white lilies and granny smith apple blossom glide through a bouquet of focused lime […]

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