A skilfully assembled wine that expresses pinpoint definition of cabernet’s hallmarks of capsicum, tobacco leaf and redcurrants, bathed in beautifully integrated yet firmly structured tannins. The vibrant and lively focus of Clare Valley definition propels it into a finish of seamlessly melded oak, impeccable line and impressive persistence. $35 at Cellar D’Or.

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Stephanie Toole is a master of capturing red wines of restraint, structural definition, poised acidity and low alcohol. The outstanding 2010 season epitomises her uncompromising focus, while simultaneously upholding impressive fruit concentration of immaculately ripe blackberry, black plum and liquorice. The restraint of the style provides space for the detail of site to be expressed […]

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There’s an entire spice kitchen woven into the folds of O’Riada: Bouquet garni, bay leaf, paprika, pot pourri and layers of white pepper over its crunchy red cherry and strawberry fruit. With a honed focus, this is a savoury and tightly structured expression of shiraz viognier, riding on firm rails of cool vintage acidity. Ultra-fine, […]

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The most sublime Polish Hills are breathtakingly gorgeous in their youth, and 2012 is the equal of the finest. Then it goes further. I cannot recall an Australian riesling of such refined poise, utter calm, magnificent concentration and devastating purity. Glorious white lilies and granny smith apple blossom glide through a bouquet of focused lime […]

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Gone is viognier’s usual exuberant, flamboyant and pungent personality, replaced with a more contemplative demeanour. Subdued by the restraint of the season, there’s a honed lemon zest accent and a crunchy, savoury texture reminiscent of almost ripe apricots, supported by suggestions of meal, apricot kernel and vanilla custard. It lacks nothing in persistence, texture or […]

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2011 is a beautifully and exactingly crafted Clonakilla that upholds balance, persistence, longevity and harmony that transcend the challenges of the season. Great complexity and spicy intrigue begin in a bouquet singing with violets, plums, rhubarb, star anise, bay leaf, even curry powder, and an ever-present undercurrent of white pepper. A tightly packed core of […]

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There’s a structural confidence and an effortlessly balanced harmony at play here that take Turkey Flat to an altogether new level. Pristine violets, hints of nutmeg and beautifully defined black plum and blackberry fruits are propelled by a firm tannin engine that delivers both tremendous stamina and purrs with a refined, silky touch. Signature Barossa […]

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Sandro Mosele is forever on the move, constantly tweaking the intricacies of his craft; patently apparent in a vintage as harmonious as 2010. His Estate Chardonnay is charged with focused energy and piercing purity, shot with pristine grapefruit and lemon; a wine of honed focus and yet depth, width, even juicy white peach appeal, without […]

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Cliff Royle is the definition of intuitive winemaking, throwing out the recipe to free himself to play with all the fine details in response to the fruits of the vintage. The outcome is a chardonnay that reflects the concentration of Margaret River in a warmer vintage, yet exemplifies earlier picked, lower alcohol energy and taut […]

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The wonderful energy, honed focused and acid drive of 2009 Hunter Valley is something to behold, and it looks set to propel one of the chardonnays of the vintage into the ranks of the longest-lived Vat 47s yet. Gunflinty and leesy, its taut mineral structure, impeccable fruit purity and understated oak make for consummate balance […]

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