The more 2011 Clare rieslings I assess, the more convinced I am of the fallacy of writing off vintages on weather reports. Here’s another stunner from a less familiar name. Beautifully textural, chalky minerality is the signature of the epicentre of Watervale, here accented with pear, granny smith apple, lime and even a hint of […]
readArticles
Tuned for summer quaffing, the cool 2011 Clare vintage has made for a particularly elegant Annie, and she’s all the more adorable for it! Pomegranate, raspberry and watermelon are all here, with a tangy pink grapefruit finish. Fine-grained texture and subtle fruit sweetness make for a very fresh, vibrant blend of malbec, mourvèdre and sangiovese. […]
readI’ve never understood Geelong riesling. Or, perhaps I should say I’ve never understood it made in the traditional Australian way. Along comes an attempt made like a chardonnay, from old vines in a cold vintage, fermented by wild yeast on full solids, partly in old barrels, kept on lees for six months and bottled with […]
readMasters of chardonnay and riesling from the west, it was only a matter of time before Howard Park nailed sauvignon. Its moment in the sun came in 2011, and the dry, warm season through Mount Barker and Margaret River gave birth to a wine of poise, balance and style. Partial barrel fermentation adds notes of […]
readGrignoWhatto? Never mind, I’d never heard of the variety, either. The point here is that one of the great, five-generation estates of Piedmont has poured its expertise into a fruit-focused, oak-free, summer lunchtime red. From the hills near Rosignano Monferrato, this is a savoury and textural wine of dried thyme, olive and dried rose petal […]
readThe embodiment of the restraint and allure of Tassie pinot, A bouquet of perfumed rose petals, violets, red cherry liqueur, brambles and dark chocolate introduces a precise palate of red cherry definition, finely textured tannins and elegant persistence. $30 at MyCellars and Dan’s. It will only get better in time.
readAn outstanding and long-lived ILR, contrasting the pure freshness of kaffir lime and lemon with the richness of roast nuts and butter. The youthful drive of a linear acid profile holds forth, carrying into a long finish of integration and poise, promising a tremendous future. $38 at Dan’s.
readOne of the hidden Gems of the upper reaches of the Yarra Valley, this is a pinot noir of deceptive longevity and understated beauty. Gentle red cherry fruits, rose petal, forest floor, dried herbs and hints of anise waft through a delicate bouquet. The palate runs on a line of vibrant, natural acidity, drawn out […]
readIt is a testimony to the great Australian blend that this wine bears its 4% touch of Hilltops cabernet on the front label. At its core, it reflects the brilliance, acid brightness and sheer vibrancy of 2009 Hunter shiraz, in all of its primary plum and black cherry glory. Fine, supple tannins and integrated chocolate […]
readI was never going to feature Krug 1998 in Wine Taste. Not that it isn’t superior to the recently launched 2000 but because if you’re going to bang $500 on a bottle of Krug, you must hunt down the 1996. Then, out of nowhere, Vintage Cellars advertised the 1998 for $300 (for the next three […]
read