I am hopelessly besotted with the classic, fine-strung purity that so many Clare rieslings have achieved in 2011, and here is another! A wine of great fruit concentration and structure, built around a core of intense lemon and lime zest, with notes of red apple and quince. It builds incrementally in the mouth, to great […]
readArticles
There are very few wines with a street price under $10 for which I can hand-on-heart recommend any vintage in the past five years. YSV is a serious blend that captures the spicy allure of peppery shiraz in all of its juicy stewed rhubarb and satsuma plum glory. Viognier adds the faintest lift of violet […]
readThe more 2011 Clare rieslings I assess, the more convinced I am of the fallacy of writing off vintages on weather reports. Here’s another stunner from a less familiar name. Beautifully textural, chalky minerality is the signature of the epicentre of Watervale, here accented with pear, granny smith apple, lime and even a hint of […]
readTuned for summer quaffing, the cool 2011 Clare vintage has made for a particularly elegant Annie, and she’s all the more adorable for it! Pomegranate, raspberry and watermelon are all here, with a tangy pink grapefruit finish. Fine-grained texture and subtle fruit sweetness make for a very fresh, vibrant blend of malbec, mourvèdre and sangiovese. […]
readI’ve never understood Geelong riesling. Or, perhaps I should say I’ve never understood it made in the traditional Australian way. Along comes an attempt made like a chardonnay, from old vines in a cold vintage, fermented by wild yeast on full solids, partly in old barrels, kept on lees for six months and bottled with […]
readMasters of chardonnay and riesling from the west, it was only a matter of time before Howard Park nailed sauvignon. Its moment in the sun came in 2011, and the dry, warm season through Mount Barker and Margaret River gave birth to a wine of poise, balance and style. Partial barrel fermentation adds notes of […]
readGrignoWhatto? Never mind, I’d never heard of the variety, either. The point here is that one of the great, five-generation estates of Piedmont has poured its expertise into a fruit-focused, oak-free, summer lunchtime red. From the hills near Rosignano Monferrato, this is a savoury and textural wine of dried thyme, olive and dried rose petal […]
readThe embodiment of the restraint and allure of Tassie pinot, A bouquet of perfumed rose petals, violets, red cherry liqueur, brambles and dark chocolate introduces a precise palate of red cherry definition, finely textured tannins and elegant persistence. $30 at MyCellars and Dan’s. It will only get better in time.
readAn outstanding and long-lived ILR, contrasting the pure freshness of kaffir lime and lemon with the richness of roast nuts and butter. The youthful drive of a linear acid profile holds forth, carrying into a long finish of integration and poise, promising a tremendous future. $38 at Dan’s.
readOne of the hidden Gems of the upper reaches of the Yarra Valley, this is a pinot noir of deceptive longevity and understated beauty. Gentle red cherry fruits, rose petal, forest floor, dried herbs and hints of anise waft through a delicate bouquet. The palate runs on a line of vibrant, natural acidity, drawn out […]
read