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I could tell you which super-premium, 842m altitude vineyard this fruit comes from, but I’d have to kill you! You be the Armchair Critic and figure it out for yourself (recent editions of Wine Taste contain clues). Rarely does such finesse, minerality, elegance and restraint materialise under $20.

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Wine Taste is a no snobbery zone. Jacob’s Creek Shiraz Cabernet was the first dozen I ever purchased and it only got better with a few years under my bed! I’ll keep recommending this soft, berry, 3 year old BBQ quaffer, especially when it comes up under $6. This week it’s $7.60 at Dan’s, $10 […]

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Deceptively sedate, elegant, fine, ethereal and mineral. When prodded with main course concentration, it arises to meet it like a gentle and powerful winged creature, revealing flashes of summer fruits and roast nuts under its wings. In one grand swoop it answers the debate of whether the searing backbone and monumental power of 1996 will […]

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With the elegance, acid backbone and energy of the 2009 Hunter season on full display, this is one Graveyard that you should leave undisturbed for many years yet. Excellent fine-boned poise and stature, wonderfully fine-grained tannin texture, exotically lifted floral complexity, tremendous line and length, unashamedly restrained. $115 at Kemeny’s.

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1999 is maturing slower and more assuredly than any other Vat 1 to hit the re-release queue in years. It’s still a youthful green hue, disclosing nuances of lime, pepper, spice and peppermint. Pure, driven and seamless. Cross your fingers for a good cork. $75 at Dan Murphy’s.

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In years to come we’ll debate which was the winner of ‘08 and ‘09 Margaret River. The true winner: anyone who lined their cellar with either! Leston in ‘09 is textbook MRCS: capsicum, tobacco leaf, red- and blackcurrants, tomato leaf, sage, cedar and finely ground, dusty tannins. $33 at Dan’s.

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Wild yeast barrel fermentation is the best thing to happen to sauvignon blanc recently, but Adelaide Hills legend Geoff Weaver has been on to it for seven years now. Gorgeous texture and life, with minerality to boot, and a seamless flow of hazelnut cream over vibrant lemon and lime zest.

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Ulithorne’s talented Rose Kentish trucked her family from McLaren Vale to Provence (France) for nine months to make this wine. Dedicated or what? Classic, pale, subtle, dry, textural, tangy, persistent pomegranate, strawberry hull and guava. It doesn’t demand a strong chill.

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Muscat is the most decadent way to finish a winter night and I’ve just discovered that in Coonawarra they start with it, too! Campbell’s effortlessly meets both briefs, thanks to its freshness of apricot and marmalade, countered by richness of coffee and honey. $15 at Dan Murphy’s.

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The full monty of premium chardonnay craftsmanship: Upper Yarra fruit, hand harvested, barrel fermented on full solids and stirred on lees for eleven months. To put it another way, all the clever tricks and TLC of the talented Franco d’Anna at a fraction of its true value.

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