Unusually, 2004 was not a large vintage for Rodez, even smaller than 2002. The precision that he has extracted from this vintage is magnificent, and this is the season that he goes back to as confirmation of his biodynamic techniques. And so it is: the minerality is an epiphany, its shards of pure chalk boring […]
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The philosophy here is an assemblage of the fruits of the first pressings of the best parcels across many years. The roll-call of vintages is mind-blowing, not only in that it averages 12 years of age on release, but that it plunders the greatest seasons of two decades, a line-up that must be unparalleled in […]
readSous bois is as distinctive for Billecart as its bold, modern label. Billecart is constantly experimenting, and occasionally something emerges from its trials for all to behold. Sous bois is literally ‘under wood’, inspired by oak-fermented parcels destined for Billecart’s top cuvées. The precision of the 2008 season has brought this blend closer to its […]
readSpecial Club is the one cuvée to rule all others at Lassalle. The philosophy here is of greater freshness and delicacy, hence a stronger representation of chardonnay, though the wine does its best to deny it. At almost nine years of age, it’s a beautifully bright and radiant pale straw hue. I was surprised to […]
readThere is a buzz in the air in Champagne as some of the first great 2008 vintage wines begin to hit the streets, and I have an ever-rising feeling that this may prove to be Champagne’s finest season of the past 20 years, after 1996. Deutz Rosé adds further weight to this claim, a magnificently […]
readThe 2008 vintage snaps high-tensile acidity and chalk mineral texture from black-and-white into vivid high-definition 3D. Every element delicately placed, seamlessly connected and supporting the greater whole, like a masterpiece of cinematography in the hands of the most fastidious director. Prepare for a breathtaking flight over fields of red roses, orchards of tangy white cherries, […]
readLong have we awaited the dawning of another grand vintage to follow the legendary 1996 Pol. Now 2002 has arrived, and, my, has it been worth the wait! All the tension of this incredible vintage is on full show, epitomising both the inherent concentration and the scintillating structure of the season. The confidence of pinot […]
readFrom 12 vintages all the way back to 1995, all oak fermented, it might appear that this recipe could play havoc with purity and focus. To the contrary, and to the credit of the genius of Erick de Sousa and the all-conquering presence of Avize chalk, this is a wine of remarkable purity. Its minerality […]
readThis accurate and enticing edition of the generous and rounded 2000 vintage was impressive on release a couple of years ago, and has since evolved to an even more comfortable demeanour. Juicy golden peaches have become baked peaches, dried fruits and figs, with a rising background of butterscotch, patisserie, woodsmoke, toast and even truffles. Its […]
readDoquet’s oldest plots stand proud on three magnificent sites in one of Champagne’s most thrilling villages. Vines date from 1929 and average 49 years of age, with roots plunging deep into solid Le Mesnil-sur-Oger chalk. This great terroir is translated with pinpoint exactness in an undercurrent of chalk minerality that is at once deep-set, while […]
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