As in every one of its cuvées, Billecart creates precision through cold settling prior to fermentation, building texture and volume later by a little bâtonnage (lees stirring) in tank. Based on the 2009 vintage and a 50% share of Avize fruit, this is a honed and focused style of impeccable focus, energy and tension. It […]
readJean-Pierre Vazart describes the 2008 harvest as the 1996 vintage with balance. That is, about as good as it gets in Champagne. His Blanc de Blancs encapsulates the season with laser-precision, great energy and thrust, a vector of pure citrus and apple of remarkable determination. Impeccable purity and delicacy of lemon bossom and granny smith […]
readA blend of six vineyards, 50% Avize, 25% Cramant and 25% Le Mesnil, selected for their ripeness, which is pushed as far as possible to emphasise creaminess. This negates the need for both chaptalisation and malolactic fermentation. This style works better in 2008 than any vintage I can remember. This vintage is razor blade; a […]
readInitiale is the most accessible and most affordable cuvée of Anselme Selosse’s inherently inaccessible and unaffordable range of cult grower champagnes. It represents more than two-thirds of his production and can be notoriously inconsistent, but this bottle purchased at his restaurant was stunning. Grand complexity is painted in broad brushstrokes of fig, marmalade, preserved lemon, […]
readStrangely, only made in half bottles and released earlier than usual, though the house couldn’t tell me why. Nonetheless, it’s even more magnificent now than it was on release, with delightfully complexity and depth of burnt butter, fig, ginger nut biscuits, dried peach and honey. It admirably upholds a refined focus, finely chalk mineral mouth […]
readMy opinions regarding 2003 champagne prestige cuvées that should never have been released are well known, so it was not without due apprehension that I approached Krug 2003 recently. Yes, this is a child of a hot and challenging vintage, yes it has softer acidity, more dry extract and more phenolic structure (true to the […]
readEverything about Salon is geared toward long-ageing potential: Only the first pressing is used, fermented cold in stainless steel tanks, and malolactic fermentation is completely blocked. The most definitive and legendary expression of champagne’s most confident, most commanding and arguably most age-worthy Côte des Blancs grand cru, Salon 2002 has been long anticipated. I first […]
readSomebody, somewhere has got to be losing money on this bottle – and it isn’t you. It’s come all the way from Spain and, unlike Australia’s meaningless “reserve”, the Spanish have strict rules to qualify for “reserva” status. At a full five years of age, it’s spent 12 months in oak barrels, and retains an […]
readAt a full price of all of $6, this is a surprisingly clean, well made and fruit-focused blend of chardonnay and pinot noir. Its apple and pear flavours culminate in a honeyed finish that’s ultimately short, simple and sweet, but at this price, who’s counting? Give it a stern chill and pour it liberally for […]
readA single vineyard in a high, cool location, will articulate the full swing of its seasons, and this is why Mike Press Shiraz oscillates from tightly-coiled, peppery elegance in vintages like 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012, to voluptuous, full-bodied stature in 2008. And 2013 is definitively the latter. Ripe plum and blackberry fruits of supple […]
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